Chinese mitten crab

The Chinese mitten crab is presented as a seasonal Shanghai delicacy, served steamed and whole at a dinner attended by Margaret. Known there as Shanghai hairy crab and Da Zha Xie, it brings local food customs into the meal through its appearance, its accompanying sauce, and Jingjun’s guidance on how to eat it.

Identity and Setting

The crabs arrive with white bellies, black backs, and fine golden hair. Jingjun identifies them as a seasonal specialty of Shanghai, taken from Yang Cheng Lake, northwest of the city. Each diner receives a crab and a bowl of dark brown dipping sauce.

Eating the Crab

Jingjun demonstrates how to remove a thumbnail-sized piece of shell from the underside and use it to scoop out the yellow flesh. Margaret dips the morsel in a sweet soy-and-vinegar mixture before tasting it, and answers Jingjun’s inquiry with approval.

Role in the Dinner

The crab briefly makes Margaret the focus of the table: Jingjun watches her try it, then remarks that the reproductive organs are the best part. Her enthusiasm immediately diminishes. The exchange gives the dish a role beyond that of a seasonal specialty, turning the meal into a moment of instruction and teasing before conversation shifts elsewhere.